The Color of Comfort

Indulging Your Inner Princess in Vienna

Scene on the Graben

Blue Bar at Hotel Sacher

Horse-drawn carriage

People-watching at Café Oper Wien

Cake display at Demel

Hotel Pertschy

The nice thing about repeat visits to a travel destination is you feel less obligated to do all the touristy things like attend the symphony or visit museums. You've done most of it already, so you can move at a more leisurely place and get a better feel for living and lounging like a local.

In April I took my fourth trip to see in-laws in Vienna. I enjoy Vienna's charms more with each visit. I'm not sure if it's the type of city you appreciate more as you age, or if the city itself has become more tourist-friendly and ravishing to look at, or a combination. I did, however, find myself wandering the streets and sitting at cafés for hours in a sort of dreamy glow. I finally figured out it's because Vienna, for a tourist like myself, is like living in a fairytale. It's the kind of place you imagine existed long ago and far away in a charmed kingdom where horse-drawn carriages clip-clop down cobblestone streets and there is no end to the marzipan delights. Vienna has been voted one of the world's best places to live, and it's obvious why.

Again, this is my simple viewpoint as a Californian who didn't grow up among palazzos and towns boasting a proud history going back hundreds of years. So, for an Americana, Vienna is the place to go to indulge your inner princess. I spent a week sipping champagne in plush rooms lit by chandelier, nibbling whipped-cream covered concoctions in stately cafés, people watching at cozy coffeehouses and admiring beautiful things at every turn. It seemed like every other shop in the city center offered chocolates, gourmet treats, shoes or lingerie. And, Vienna loves dogs, so your precious pup is welcome almost anywhere, even restaurants. But if you become oversatiated by all this opulence and indulgence, there are countless intellectual inticements in this city of high culture: just choose your preference of gallery hopping, book browsing, museum gazing or opera.

We stayed at the Hotel Pertschy, an elegant, inviting bed and breakfast converted from an old baroque palace. It's located in the center of town, tucked away on a peaceful side street, just a stroll from Stephansplatz. Through your window, you could hear the horses clopping along the street below. I loved waking in that room each morning to see the pink ceiling overhead, the chandelier catching the light, feeling like royalty, wondering if it would be too gauche to have cake for breakfast.

There was no need to go out for breakfast because the surprisingly reasonable price of the room came with a delectable buffet that had me rising at uncharacteristically early hours. I've never had bread, cake and other baked treats like I've enjoyed in Vienna. Fresh rolls, grainy brown bread, fresh-baked semmeln, chewy pretzels, strudels and tortes, cake like we can only dream about here. Nobody does cake like they do in Vienna. We had a few memorable dessert moments, but our experience at the renown Demel was the pinnacle. An absolute must for cake lovers.

Other musts:

• Brezel-Gwolb for casual traditional dining in a quirky, gemütlich wine cellar (Rick Steves describes it as Tolkienesque)
  
• The Stadtpark (City Park) for afternoon strolling with the locals
• Historic Hotel Sacher's Blue Bar for cocktails and top-notch service in an all-blue salon
• Do & Co's Onyx Bar for drinks in a hip lounge with a stunning view of the awe-inspiring Stephansdom
• Dorotheum auction house for art and antique shopping (or to just browse)
• The Secession to view Klimt's magnificent Beethoven Frieze, with the Naschmarkt just a block over for fresh produce, ethnic foods, or a relaxed lunch
  
• Café Hawelka for coffee with the bohemian crowd
• Kunst Haus Wien to ogle Hundertwasser's eye-popping, ecologically-minded creations (there was also a fabulous Picasso exhibit when I visited)
  
• The Prater for old-fashioned amusement park fun, where you can ride the Ferris wheel made famous by The Third Man, visit the haunted house, or picnic on green meadows
  
• Julis Meinl for high-end gourmet gifts like designer water, 400 cheeses, fruit-shaped marzipan or imported sardines
• American Bar designed by Adolf Loos for martinis in moody surroundings done in luxe marble and onyx
  
• and pretty much any sausage stand for a quick beer and taste of local street food.

Whatever you do, don't forget your walking shoes. The best way to get the feel for any European city is to spend time roaming and getting lost.

Leonard Cohen and His Tower of Song

It was 1987 and I was 21, living in Tokyo, when a black and white music video came on TV. A sonorous rumble of a voice started singing, a voice I'd never heard before, rolling like thunder through my tiny apartment. I was smitten, riveted to the screen, like I'd been struck by lightning. The song was "First We Take Manhattan" and the voice belonged to Leonard Cohen. The next day I went out in search of this song, and paid a lot of yen for "I'm Your Man" on cassette. I played that tape till it started warbling with overuse.

I finally got to see Leonard Cohen perform this song live, last night at Oakland's Paramount Theatre. Watching him sing with no less passion than he had twenty years ago took me immediately back to my own past, living as a girl lost in the big city. It was definitely a high point in my existence, last night sitting in that historic art deco theatre, watching this living legend perform before an adoring and grateful audience.

The glowing, spectacularly ornate Paramount, shimmering like a gilded temple for dreams lost and found, was a strangely ideal setting for this spiritual poet/singer to channel his visions on life, death, love, longing, and searchings of the heart. Cohen's songs are like stories that lure you in, and he sings with such humble wisdom about humanity in all its wonder and fragility that you feel lifted and understood, and yes, it's okay to be where we are because all is as it should be, and nothing lasts forever anyway. You walk away with a bit more compassion after hearing this man and his words, at turns heartbreaking and humorous, self-effacing and provocative, dark and light.

We were treated to three encores, and many words of thanks and bows from Cohen going out to his band, to the angelic vocalists, the audience, the crew, even the "lady who takes care of our hats." His energy lingered with me throughout my sleep and when I woke the first thing I did was go online in search of the music video I saw way back in the 80's. That's when I learned (from user comments) that Leonard Cohen is on the currently released Watchmen soundtrack, allowing another generation to discover his music. Hallelujah!

Mendocino

A glass of Edelzwicker in the vineyard

Picnic in Navarro Vineyards

The beautiful sea

Deck with ocean view

The MacCallum House Inn

Breakfast at the MacCallum House

Driftwood covered beach at the headlands

Bloody Mary's at Dick's

Shops on Main Street, Mendocino

The Moose Cafe

Driftwood on Big River Beach

We've been visiting Mendocino for years, our favorite nearby getaway that's become a place of many wonderful memories. It's still astonishing that driving just three hours north of San Francisco takes us to a place that is so peaceful with a faraway feel, and has much to offer in terms of natural beauty, comfortable lodging and excellent dining. Each time we go back we're thrilled to find much of the little town and surrounding areas relatively unchanged.

Driving along 128 through the beautiful Anderson Valley, we always stop at Navarro Vineyards. We love this place so much we once thought (years ago) about holding our wedding there, until we decided the logistics of gathering everyone would have been difficult. After tasting almost everything on their list including fruity-crisp Chenin Blanc and luscious late harvest Riesling, we purchased their fabulous Pinot to take back, and a bottle of their delightful Edelzwicker for our picnic on their grounds.

Most of our previous Mendocino visits took us to our standby homey cabins at Fools Rush Inn, which were located in Little River, about a mile south from the town of Mendocino. This is where we stayed on our very first trip together, many moons ago. Our beloved Fools Rush Inn was recently sold, however, and after renovation has become a more updated property called Cottages at Little River. We decided to try someplace new, so at our friend Vijay's recommendation we stayed at the historic MacCallum House in town. The main house is a beautiful Victorian overlooking the sea, but there are a variety of cottages and rentals that are a part of the estate.

We stayed in the charming renovated barn house, just across the lawn from the main house. Our room had a plush bed with huge fireplace, and a deck with ocean view. Our bed came with a wonderful breakfast which we enjoyed with cheery service each morning on the main house's expansive sunlit porch. We also had dinner one night in the cozy and romantic MacCallum House Restaurant, where I had meltingly delicious seared kona kampachi and oysters with a Bloody Mary granita. Again, wonderful service, friendly staff. Considering we also received a two-nights-for-one deal through internet booking, the entire weekend was a worthy experience.

We started off our mini-vacation with massages at Mendocino Massage, just a couple of blocks from our lodgings. Couples can book simultaneous massages, and we experienced our fifty minutes of soothing bliss in their lovely garden gazebo.

In town, a variety of shops offer books, decorative items for the home, new age knickknacks, handmade candy. One shop I enjoy looking in just to see beautiful things for the home is Golden Goose on Main Street. I recommend it if you feel like blowing some cash on one-of-a-kind glassware or imported linens.

Our second night found us dining at the Moose Cafe, where you can always count on a well-prepared seasonal, affordable menu in their warm wood-floor dining room. The cafe was almost packed and we were lucky to get a table without reservations. I had a wonderful white bean soup that I could go for right now.

Two other places we have to visit are Dick's Place, a colorful local's hangout featuring awesome Bloody Mary's and the only neon sign for miles, and Patterson's Pub, which is an atmospheric Irish-style pub that feels lived-in but is a relatively new establishment (we remember when it used to be a video rental shop). Patterson's is good for a pint and comforting pub fare with a game of dominoes or dice, if you can ignore the six plasma TV's (on mute, though).

I haven't even gone into the many beaches and other natural splendors that abound in Mendocino. You're just surrounded by spectacular vistas at every turn. There's really something for everyone: tidepooling, kayaking, hiking, whale watching, botanical gardens, beaches covered by driftwood or sea glass. We always vow to stay longer next time, there is so much to see and enjoy.

Happy New Year - again!

We get to celebrate twice! Check out our Okinawan festivities on my other blog.

Happy New Year

New Year's has always been a significant holiday for my family. It's an important time to celebrate and feast in Japan and Okinawa, and our mom carried this tradition over for us as kids. We were permitted to stay up until midnight on December 31st, watching special Japanese programming on TV and eating and drinking, and at the stroke of 12 we clanged pot lids together and shouted out our front door. January 1st meant more food and partying with our family. In Japan big year-end parties happen during the month of December, and many businesses close the first few days of the new year.

The past few years our oshogatsu (New Year) celebration has been held at our house, where family and a few of our closest friends gather for feasting and sharing cheer. It's a time to let go of the old and welcome the new, while recognizing what's important to us. Here's to a fresh start, and a new year of good health and happiness for all.

And lucky us: we also get to celebrate in February, when Okinawans recognize the lunar new year as well. More fun, food, festivities.

The Dickens Christmas Fair

An elegant salon gathering.

Strolling in old London.

Lovely little hats.

Gingerbread rats.

A Punch and Judy show.

The little girl and the street mime.

For the love of gin.

The Gin Girl on show.

Chimney sweeps have a sip and a gander.

Leather masks of birds and beasts.

Victoriana for sale.

Peddler for the bewitching Green Fairy.

Entertainment and flavors from the Silk Road.

An explorer.

"Spirit of the Goddess" merchant.

Selecting the right adornment.

Fit for a fairy princess.

Ladies linger at the pub.

Enticing, inedible cakes.

If you're like me and my sister and have always been drawn to the quirky charms of the Victorian era, you must take a trip to the Dickens Fair next December for a visit to Christmas Past (sorry to say it's over for this season).

The Dickens Fair is a recreation of Victorian-era London set in San Francisco's Cow Palace, complete with lamp-lit streets and bustling market areas. You'll encounter common citizens, merchants and artisans, chimney sweeps, live mannequins, street urchins and orphans, various dignitaries including the queen, explorers with steampunk gear, alongside many eccentric characters straight from Dickens and other literary works of the time.

There is much humor and fun to be found throughout, with a bit of everything for everyone in the family - the bizarre or irreverent, the beautiful or traditional, the tasty or intoxicating. You can dance the waltz at Fezziwig's, listen to carousing sailors sing at the docks, watch a Punch and Judy show or belly dancers at the Silk Road stage, buy exotic gifts such as ladies' hats adorned with plumage. Or munch freshly roasted sweet nuts from a paper cone, lunch on fish and chips, sip a cup of hot mulled wine or knock back some ale. This year they even featured an absinthe merchant for those yearning for a visit to the green fairy. One of my favorite things was the cookie shop which offered gingerbread rats with frosting x's for eyes. I also loved the stunning handcrafted leather masks, and the magical tiaras fit for a fairy princess (see photo of my niece Amalia adorned in one of these head ornaments).

A good proportion of people - visitors and participants alike - were dressed in elaborate costumes of the period, milling about in gowns and fancy hats in quaint shops, chatting and debating about events of the day. You can participate by attending workshops in advance where you learn characterization, and are trained to speak in "Victorian" or Cockney, depending on your class.

Every year we hope to attend in costume but haven't been organized enough so far. Maybe next year we'll be more prepared to venture into Dickens' London appropriately attired.